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Upgrading a bathroom is one of the more popular home improvement projects. Handling the plumbing for draining your shower can be exceedingly simple unless you go overboard.
Whether you are a bathtub or shower person, most people look for shower only options when buying a home. This simple fact means more than a few homeowners spend a weekend upgrading or installing showers in their bathrooms. Fortunately for you, it is a fairly simple process.
A collector or pan refers to the horizontal surface located at the bottom of the shower. The collector typically consists of a non-slip surface slightly banked towards the center or wherever the drain is located. Combined with three to four inch walls around the side, the goal of your shower drainage plumbing is to get the water to flow to and down the drain.
You can physically build a collector for your new shower, but you really need to think about it. Do you really want to get into the complications of getting the sloping correct, not to mention making sure every aspect of it is waterproof? And I mean every aspect! It is much easier to simply buy a pre-cast collector online or at your local Lowes, Home Depot or hardware store. Building one might sound like a great idea, but you will probably feel differently after a couple of hours.
Regardless of how you go about getting a pan, you should make every effort to use one that has the drain located in the same spot as the original pan. Moving the drain pipes can be a task, particularly if the builder used a unique framing structure. If you are determined to move the drain, you are going to have to cut back the pipe or lengthen it, which may mean ripping up large chunks of the floor. Put another way, you are going to be looking at a multiple weekend project.
Assuming we have our drain lined up, the actual hook up is fairly simple. The drainage pipe should be facing vertical up to the collector. It will often look like a "U", which means it acts as a cleanout to keep nasty smells from coming back up from the drain. To connect the drain, you are going to create a water tight connection between a drain cap on the top of the pan and the drainage pipe. Systems vary, but you are typically going to do this by putting a coupling piece on the top of the drainage pipe. This is then covered with gaskets and literally screwed into the drain cap. The drain cap should act as a locknut, to wit, it screws directly onto the coupling.
The tricky part of this process is getting your drain cap to fit into a watertight position in the pan. This is accomplished by backing off the drain cap once you are sure everything fits together. At that point, you put plumbers putty around the underside of the cap and then screw it back on. The putty should form a tight seal between the cap and the shower pan, which keeps water from trickling under it and into the framing under the shower.
Obviously, bathroom showers come in a wide variety of styles these days. If you purchase a collector, they almost always come with plumbing instructions or the store can note anything unusual you should know. It sounds complex, but is typically pretty straight forward. Have fun!
Handling Your Own Shower Drain Installation ProjectOnce you decide to change out cabinet hardware you might find the style you pick won't look that great if you try and replace the knobs in the same spots that the old ones were in. Well what to do? You certainly don't want to go back to the same boring old hardware. Instead you need a better understanding of your options for where to place knobs on a cabinet.
The most obvious place to put a knob will be on a side opposite a hinge. The leverage allows you to open the door with almost no effort. This is great for those that might have a disability limiting their grip strength. The only exception to this rule is if you have roll out bottom cabinets, you know, the giant drawer types. Those you'll want to install the knobs centered on the cabinet to keep it from binding up on either side.
Well that gives you a rough idea of where to put the knobs but you probably need something a little bit more exact. Unfortunately there's no magic formula for where to place knobs on a cabinet. It's all going to come down to how the cabinets are designed and the size and shape of them and your kitchen.
There's a trick you can use to figure out where to place the knobs without just randomly drilling a bunch of holes into the cabinet face and hoping for the best. Head out to the hardware store and pick up a small tub of plumber's putty. Plumbers putty is a non-hardening compound that's slightly tacky. You can pull off little dollops of it then use it to just stick the knobs to the cabinet.
Here's what you'll do.
Open up the tub of Plumber's putty.
Pinch off a piece of putty about the size of the tip of your thumb.
Roll it into a ball.
Take the cabinet hardware and press the putty onto the back of it. Now you can just stick the knob onto the cabinet face wherever you think it will look right. Repeat this for a couple of the doors so you can get an overall feel for how the knobs will look sitting in a row. You can reposition the knobs just by popping them off the cabinet face and sticking them back on in a new spot.
Once you've figured out the right look for the cabinet you'll need to measure the knob offsets from the bottom and side edge of the cabinets. You can then use those measurements as a template for knob placement. Mark the offsets on each of the cabinets and double check to make sure they aren't slanting up or down.
The last thing to do is attach the hardware. Just drill the holes in the cabinet and slide a bolt through the hole and tighten the knobs down onto it. It's all a pretty simple job. Where to place knobs on a cabinet is a completely personal choice. You'll know what looks right once you get the knobs in position.
Where to Place Knobs on a CabinetThe specialized skill of plumbing is a mandatory need of many residential home owners, these days, tomorrow and in the future. Many people go to trade schools and gain this skill so that they can develop into certified plumbers and start their own business someday.
Occasionally it may be challenging to find a local plumber. So there will be times wherever the homeowner will have to achieve the skill for themselves.
However, for a skilled or a novice plumber to carry out his plumbing work efficiently, he will need the correct and sufficient tools. Here you can learn the fundamental tools and supplies that is desired and used by a plumber.
A Caulk gun- this used to clutch tubes of caulk or glue. A steel handle pushes the bead of caulk out of the plunger.
A Flashlight- a flashlight will be required for plumbers to inspect pipes and drain openings.
A circuit tester- this is a very valuable device for testing for live current in an electrical outlet or appliance.
A ratchet wrench will be needed to tighten and loosen bolts and nuts
A hacksaw can be used for cutting metal and also plastic pipes.
A utility knife will in addition come in handy while doing a plumbing job. They have a razor sharp blade that is helpful on behalf of trimming the ends of plastic pipes.
A putty knife is helpful for scraping away old putty from appliances and fixtures.
Needle nose pliers will prove worthwhile for holding little objects and for getting into confined areas.
A Tubing cutter makes straight smooth cuts into plastic and copper pipes.
A closet auger is a slender tube used to clear toilet clogs. It has a crank handle on one end of a flexible auger cable. A bend in the tube allows the tube to achieve the base of the toilet and there is a rubber sleeve to prevent the toilet from getting scratched.
A hand auger is referred to as a snake and is used to clear clogs in drains. One more helpful tool is a blow bag. It is used to clear clogs in drains and is attached to garden hose to remove the clogs with powerful spurts of water.
For the most part and very common tool for plumbing work is a plunger. It removes clogs with water and air pressure. A standard plumber can be used to clear clogs in showers, sinks and floor drains. Nearly in all places you go you will see a plunger, even in restaurant bathrooms.
So to recap, these are merely a small amount of the tools required to effectively carry out a plumbing job at home. With the correct tools and correct methods, you can save yourself some money by doing plumbing on your own.
Tools Required By PlumbersIn this home improvement do it yourself renovation post, we will cover in detail how to install ceramic wall tile.
The tools you will need for this DIY project are as follows:
Notched trowel Grout mixer Drill Dust pan Medium sized bucket Measuring Tape Level Pencil Grout sponge Wet tile saw Ceramic tile nibblers ear protectors
Ceramic tile comes in a variety of color and sizes; from 1 inch, all the way up to 18 inches. Although most people prefer using 4 inch tile on walls, the most popular size tile is 12 inches. When picking out at wall tile for a tub surround, you need to make sure that the tile is water impervious (water won't penetrate it). Tiles that are water resistant and repel water are known as semi-vitreous and impervious ceramic tiles.
Preparing the wall for installation
Ceramic tile can be installed on a variety of materials; including drywall, water resistant drywall, plaster and cement backer board. If installing for a tub surround or as a kitchen backsplash, green water resistant drywall or cement board should be used. In this post, we will be illustrating how to install on water resistant drywall.
If using cement board for your project, remember that cement board is cut the same way as regular drywall. Score the drywall with a utility knife, bend and snap it on the line, and cut the backside paper. You must keep in mind that the cement board may come in contact with water; therefore galvanized screws should be used for mounting to wall studs (spaced roughly 6 inches apart). The seams or butt joints are finished by taping with fiberglass tape, and a light coat of thin-set mortar applied as a sealer.
Marking the wall
If you are installing ceramic tile as a tub surround, my suggestion is to work it out that the center of two tiles end up at the center of the shower control, tub spout and shower head. This will make it easier for cutting and less labor intensive. Also, it will reduce the need of using special tools for cutting holes in the ceramic tile. Keep in mind that you want the tile on either end to be somewhat similar in size.
Make a mark where you want the tile to be and mark vertical and horizontal level lines. When marking your horizontal line, ensure that you measure the tile correctly so that the tile is not sitting directly on the top sides of the tub. If the tub happens to shift or move, the tile may crack. To keep the tile off the tub, simply place a tile spacer on either end, between the tub and the tile. See the pic below for a better understanding.
Installing the ceramic tile
When installing the ceramic tile, start at the center point of the shower control and work left and right along the bottom line. Starting in the center, making sure not to cover your lines, apply a coat of pre-mixed tile adhesive to an area for about two tiles. Spread the adhesive with your notched trowel to create ridges in the adhesive. See illustration below to get a better understanding.
Also, if you prefer, you could do what is called "Back buttering" the tile. Each tile is done one at a time, spreading adhesive to the back of the tile and set in place on the wall. See below.
Press each tile in place, giving it a slight twisting motion. This movement ensures that the tile makes good contact with the adhesive. As you work your way along the horizontal line, place tile spacers between each tile, making sure your grout lines will be consistent. Doing one tile at a time, work from one horizontal line to the next, placing spacers along the way to maintain the grout line.
When you arrive at the corner, measure the size of the tile needed and cut with your wet tile saw. The remainder of the cut tile will be installed on the opposite side of the same corner. As illustrated below.
If and when you arrive at a hole that needs to be cut, take a measurement from the installed tile to the obstruction, and transfer that mark to the ceramic tile. Once this mark is made, use your wet tile saw and make many small cuts from the edge of the tile to the mark. Snap these small pieces off with tile nibblers, and let the tile dry. At this time, the tile should be ready to install. If the edge of the tile is sharp, smooth the edge with 80 grit sandpaper.
It is also very likely that at some point, you will end your tile on mid wall. When installing ceramic tile in this fashion, you must use a ceramic tile finishing strip. These strips are to be installed level, with the adhesive holding them in place. The tile is then cut and adhered over top of the finishing strip, with the tiles factory edge touching the finishing strip.
If you cannot complete the job at one time, do not leave any adhesive sit for too long on the wall. The adhesive will be very difficult to remove and will be almost impossible to install tiles in this area. Using a flat edge putty knife, remove excess adhesive from wall.
Grouting the tile
Once the tiles have all been fully installed and the adhesive has set up (24 hrs), it will be time to grout the tiles. See below.
Depending on the width of your grout lines, you will need to choose either sanded or un-sanded grout. If the spaces between the tiles are bigger than 1/8 inch, use sanded grout (This type of grout contains sand particles that help make the grout joint stronger).
Before you grout your tile, remove all your spacers and remove all excess adhesive that may have been left behind.
Following the manufacturer's instructions, start mixing the grout. I recommend emptying two cups of grout in the bucket and slowly add water until you get the required consistency. The consistency should be similar to peanut butter or hot oatmeal. See the pic below to get a better understanding of the grout consistency.
Note: If you're grouting in a bathroom or kitchen area, be sure your grout includes a waterproofing agent.
Using a rubber grout float, apply the grout at a 45-degree angle to the grout lines. Pressing firmly into the grout lines, ensure the grout fills the spaces between the tile and gets all the way down to the bottom of the seams. Working in a 3' x 3' area, be sure you get even coverage over all the grout lines.
After all the grout is applied, at a 45 degree angle to the grout lines, wipe off any excess grout with a damp wet sponge and clean the sponge regularly with clear water (as seen in the pic below). When applying grout on a wall, it is a good idea to put a drop sheet down to ensure there will be no grout falling onto the floor or use a dust pan to catch the grout as it falls.
After the grout has set after about 30 minutes, repeat wiping off the tile with the sponge. This may have to be done several times before the grout is completely removed from the surface of the tile.
Finishing the job
Let the grout dry for about 24 hours, and wipe away any surface haze with a damp rag. Make sure to clean the rag continuously until the tile is free of grout haze. If your wall is in a kitchen or bathroom, use clear mildew resistant silicone caulking to seal the edges of the ceramic tile where it meets the counter or top of the tub.
Note: Also, it is a good idea to apply a grout sealer after a week or so. Doing this, will prevent any dirt or stains from getting into the grout and ruining its appearance.
We hope you have enjoyed our DIY post, and wish you Happy Renovations!
How to Install Ceramic Wall TileA plumber is a professional tradesman that is responsible for the water flowing into, around and out of your home. He deals with the pipes and the fixtures that we utilize each and every day and will keep them working in optimal condition.
A plumber has an arsenal of tools at his disposal and some of them are tools that most people are familiar with. Items like screwdrivers, wrenches, wire brushes, tape measures, levels, Allen wrenches, small ball hammers, files, putty knives and utility knives are things that we have around our homes, but a plumber also utilizes a lot of other things that are helpful to him every day. You may have a toilet plunger, but other than that, which plumbing tools are just hanging about in your garage?
> Plumbers have snakes that they put down drains to try to remove clogs. They can be called drain snakes or augers and they are basically stainless steel lengths that are sturdy but bendable so they can get into all the pipes with ease. Pushing to clog down and getting it into smaller pieces make it easier to dispose of and flush away.
A wire combination brush is a nifty tool that can be used to clean both the inside and the outside of copper piping. Tubing cutters makes smooth cuts in all sorts of pipe, and a propane torch is used to weld together pieces of copper pipes and fittings. There are several nifty tools that are invented just for plumbers, things like seat dressing tools that Highlander worn valve seats, and a basin wrench that is used to tighten the hard to reachfaucet mountings.
They also work with a variety of pipes, couplers, fittings and washers. Piping can either be welded together or glued with super strong waterproof adhesives. Heat resistant grease, pipe joint compound teflon tape and plumber's putty are all present in the tool kit and are used for various applications.
Plumber's Tools